
Richardsons 

COMPLETE 

INSTRUCTION BOOK 

TOR SILK and cotton 

CROCHE 

k I ' > f . .5 " •"'U ;4afe BWPi 

TATTIN 

SMOCKING 

%” ; 

YOKES, EDGINGS 

LUNCHEON SETS 
HANDKERCHIEFS 
BABY-WEAR 
CENTERPIECES 
SCARFS,BAG S 

PUBLISHED BY 

RICHARDSON SILK COMPANY 

CHICAGO - NEW YORK 





The Shopping List Telcrw Tells 
You Exactly What You Need 


Iv JR C. Corbonnet 


Art. 65 

White and Colors 


All Sizes 
10 Cents 


Do Your Crocheting With the Following Threads and Floss 


The numbers listed below give the best results in making the edgings and 
insertions shown in this book, and for all classes of general embroidery 


WHAT TO ASK FOR..-...-...-.....-...... 

Article 99-B, R. M. C. New Process 

Sizes 8 to 6o. For French and eyelet embroidery on all 
kinds of waists, lingerie, baby wear,pillow cases, towels, etc. 

New Process, A to F 

For French and eyelet embroidery on heavy waists, towels, 
coarse linen center pieces, French knot embroidery, out¬ 
lining. 

Article 98, R. M. C. Arabia and Rope 

Kmbroidery Cotton. For satin stitch, cross 
stitch, French knot and Kensington embroideries. 

Richardson’s Perfect or Our Art Knit¬ 
ting* Silk. For crocheting silk baby bonnets,bootees 
and jackets, powder puffbags, silk edgings on silk lingerie. 

Article 15-R, R. M. C. Perle 

Large dividable hanks. For Hardanger embroidery and 
crocheting bed spreads. 

Made in the U. S. A. 

Richardson’s Mercerized Crochet and Embroidery Cottons 

Are the best that money can buy, because they are manufactured from specially selected Sea Island Cotton, and 
are made by skilled labor working under sanitary conditions. 

These reasons, coupled with our vast resources and years of experience, enable the RICHARDSON SILK 
COMPANY to produce better goods than any other maker, for the same price. 


Article 65, R. M. C. Cordonnet 

For crocheting lingerie yokes, fancy bags, luncheon sets, 
bed spreads and for crocheting or tatting edgings for 
doilies or handkerchiefs. 

Richardson’s Tatting Silk 

For tatting or crocheting silk edgings on handkerchiefs, 
baby petticoats and jackets, fine doilies, crepe waists, 
silk lingerie. 

Article 5 or Article 10, R. M. C. 

For crocheting slippers, baby bootees and jackets, edgings 
on towels. 

Article 20, R.M.C.Eyeletta Rail Floss 

For French and eyelet embroidery on dainty waists, 
lingerie and baby wear. 

Article 15,R. M. C. Perle Skein Cotton 

For cross stitch and French knot, outline and Hardanger 
embroideries. 


CHICAGO RICHARDSON SILK COMPANY NEW YORK 

Makers of Richardson’s Pure Silk Floss and Richardson’s Spool Sewing Silk 
Send for our new De Luxe Premium Art Book, picturing 500 Embroidery Patterns, given free for tags saved from Richardson’s Floss 






















Richardson’s 

Complete Instruction Book 

On 

Crocheting 
Tatting and 
Smocking 

Original Designs with Directions 
For Working 



Published by 

Richardson Silk Company 

Chicago and New York 



15, by 

COMPANY 





















Silk 


RICHARDSON’S CROCHET ‘BOOK 


< W 6 


Cotton 


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Crocheting Stitches 


Terms 

ch. 

si st. 

sc. 

d c. 

t c. 

P. 

* 


Chain Stitch 

Make a loop on the needle, pull another 
loop of thread through it, and repeat until 
the desired length is made. 

Slip Stitch 

With the thread through a loop of the 
chain take a stitch through a chain stitch, 
and also through the one on the needle 
at the same time. 

Single Crochet Stitch 

On a chain, insert the needle in a stitch 
and draw the thread through; thread over 
the needle and draw through 2 loops on 
the needle. Repeat to end of the chain. 

Double Crochet Stitch 

: Having a stitch on the needle, put the 
' needle through the work and draw a stitch 
through, making 2 on the needle. Take 
up the thread again and draw it through 
2; then take up again and draw through 
the 2 remaining loops on the needle. 


Used 

chain stitch 
. slip stitch 
. single crochet 

. . . double crochet 

. treble crochet 

. . . . picot 

. . sign of repetition 

Treble Crochet Stitch 

Thread over twice and work off as 
follows: Thread over and through 2 loops, 
over and through 2, over and through 2. 
For a long treble stitch, thread over 3, 4, 
or as many times as desired, and work 
off the stitches 2 at a time until only 1 
remains on the needle. 

Picot 

Chain 3 or 4 stitches; insert the needle 
in the first stitch of the 3 or 4 ch; thread 
over and draw through ch st and loop on 
the hook at the same time. 

Note 

In the instructions for articles illus¬ 
trated, only Richardson’s Guaranteed 
Prqducts, standard of " the world, are 
recommended. 

Ask for them and accept no other. 

O. SO 


©CI.A411756 


OCT I 1915 










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New York 



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3 




Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET KOOK Cotton 

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Crocheted Lace No. 1 

See Page 3 

Materials: Richardson's No. 50 R. M. C. and No. 
9 Hook. A spool makes about two-thirds yard of this lace. 

Directions 

First Row: Ch 24 sts, turn, in 4th from the hook 
make * 3 d c, 2 ch, 1 d c in same st, skip 3 ch and repeat 
from * 4 times, ch 2, skip 2 ch, d c in next, ch 2, skip 2, 
d c in next. 

Second Row: Ch 6, d c in 2nd d c, ch 2, * shell of 
(3 d c, 2 ch, 1 d c) in 2 ch, and repeat from * 4 times. 

Third Row: Ch 4 (3 d c, 2 ch, 1 d c), in 2 ch, and 
repeat the shell 4 times, ch 2, d c in last d c of last shell, 
ch 2, d c in d c, ch 2, d c in last d c. 

Repeat second and third rows until lace is the desired 
length. 

This pattern may be any width desired by increasing 
or decreasing the number of shells. 

Crocheted Edging and Insertion No. 2 

See Page 3 

Materials: Richardson's Crochet Silk and a No. 7 
Steel Hook, or R. M. C. Cordonnet Special No. 30 and 
No. 8 Hook. 

Directions 

Begin with a ch the desired length. 

First Row: D c with 1 ch between in every alternate 
st of the ch. 

Second Row: Ch 5, s c in 3rd d c from the end, * ch 
5, skip 1 d c, s c in next d c, and repeat from * to end of 
the row with s c in the last d c. 

Third Row: Ch 5, 2 s c in last 5 ch, * ch 5, 2 s c in 
next 5 ch, and repeat from * to end. 

Fourth, Fifth and Sixth Rows: Same as the third. 

Seventh Row: In the last 5 ch make a shell of (1 ch, 
5 d c, with 1 ch between, 1 ch), s c in next 5 ch, and 
repeat to end. 

Eighth Row: Ch l,s c between first 2 d c of shell, * 
ch 5, s c between next 2 d c, and repeat from * 3 times, 
ch 1, s c between first 2 shells. Repeat to end of the row. 

Insertion 

Make the first 7 rows same as in the lace. 

Eighth Row: Ch 4, s c in each 5 ch of the last row. 

Ninth Row: D c in each s c and in each 5 ch of the 
last row with 1 ch between. 

Pin Cushion Cover No. 3 

See Page 3 

Materials : One spool of Richardson's Tatting Silk or 
one spool of Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet No. 60 
and a No. 9 Steel Hook. 


Make a chain of 6 sts joined to form a ring. 

First Row: Ch 8, t c in the ring, * ch 3, t c in ring, 
repeat from * 6 times, ch 3, s c in 5th st of 8 ch. 

Second Row: Ch 3, 4 d c in 3 ch, 5 d c in each of 
next 7 of 8 ch, join last st to ch 3. 

Third Row: Ch 5, over twice, take st in next d c, 
work off sts 2 at a time leaving 2 on the hook, over twice, 
take a st in next d c, work sts off 2 at a time, ch 5, t c in 
next st leaving 2 sts on hook and finish the point as before. 
Repeat around the circle making 16 points with 5 ch 
between. 

Fourth Row: 7 d c in each 5 ch. 

Fifth Row: 6 d c over 6 d c, ch 3, skip 1 d c, 6 d c 
over next 6 d c, repeat to end of row thus, starting 16 
points. (See illustration.) 

Sixth Row: 5 d c over 5 d c, ch 3, d c in 3 ch, p of 
4 sts, ch 3, skip 1 d c, 5 d c over 5 d c, and repeat to end 
of row. 

Seventh Row : 4 d c over 4 d c, 3 chains of 3 each and 
3 p between points. 

For Eighth, Ninth and Tenth Rows: Decrease the 
number of d c in each point 1 each row, and increase the 
number of chains, p and d c between points 1 each row. 

Eleventh Row: Same as the last except at the tip 
of the points where a si st is placed in the 1 d c. 

Crocheted Edging and Insertion No. 4 

See Page 3 

Materials : Richardson’s Tatting Silk or R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 50 and a No. 8 Steel Hook. For 
a coarser lace use R. M. C. No. 30 or 40 and a No. 7 Hook. 

Directions 

Make a ch the length of lace desired. 

First Row: Beginning in the 5th from the hook make 
d c with 2 ch between in every third st of the ch. 

Second Row: Ch 3 to take the place of a d c, d c in 
the last d c, * ch 5, skip 1 d c, 2 d c in next d c, and repeat 
from * to end of the row. 

Third Row: Ch 3, d c in last 2 d c, ch 2, s c in 5 ch, 
ch 2, 2 d c in next 2 d c, and repeat to end of the row. 

Fourth Row: Two s c in every 2 d c with 5 ch be¬ 
tween. 

Fifth Row: Ch 3, d c in s c, ch 2, s c in 5 ch, 2 ch, 2 
d c in next 2 s c, and repeat to end of row. 

Sixth Row: Same as 5th row. 

Seventh Row: S c and d c in last 5 ch, 5 ch caught 
back to form a picot, d c, another p, d c, p, d c, s c, then 
s c between the 2 d c. Make this shell in every 5 ch. 

This lace may be wider by repeating the 2nd and 3rd 
rows before making the shell. 


4 


Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 

.....nut...........ill....Mill.I.I.I.I.......nil. 


Insertion 

Make a ch the length desired. 

First Row: D c in 4th st from hook, ch 5, skip 4 ch, 
2 d c in the next and repeat to end of row. 

Second Row: Same as third row of lace. 

Third Row: Same as 4th row of lace. 

Fourth Row: Ch 5, s c between every 2 d c of 
previous row. 

Fifth Row: D c in each 5 ch and each s c with 2 ch 
between. 

For the rest of the insertion begin on the other side of 
the foundation ch and make the same number of rows as 
seen in the illustration. 

Night Dress Yoke No. 5 

See Page 3 

Materials: Two balls of Richardson's R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 40, a No. 8 Steel Hook and 32 
inches of Novelty Braid. 

Join ends of the braid to form a circle. Fasten thread 
to first p of braid, ch 5, d c in third p, ch 2, d c in first 
p of next medallion of braid, ch 2, and repeat around the 
circle, joining last 2 ch to 3rd st of the 5 ch. 

Second Row: (Two d c, 2 ch, 2 d c), in first 2 ch, 
skip next 2 ch and shell in next 2 ch, and repeat around 
the yoke. 

Third Row: * 2 d s in first shell and 2 d s in next 
shell, 10 t c in next shell and repeat from * to end of row. 

Fourth Row: Shell in shell, ch 1, si st between first 
2 t c, * ch 3, si st between next 2 t c, repeat from * 7 more 
times making 9 of 3 ch in pineapple, ch 1, shell in next 
shell, and repeat to end of row. 

Fifth Row: Shell in shell, ch 1, si st in 3 ch of pine¬ 
apple, ch 3, si st in next 3 ch, and repeat, making 7 of 
the 3 ch, with 1 ch before and after the shell. 

Sixth Row: 2 ch before and after the shell, and 6 of 
the 3 ch in pineapple. 

Seventh Row: 2 ch before and after the shell, 5 of 
the 3 ch. 

Eighth Row : 3 ch each side of shell and 4 of the 3 ch. 

Ninth Row: 3 ch each side of shell, and 3 of 3 ch. 

Tenth Row: 4 ch each side of the shell, and 2 of 3 ch. 

Eleventh Row: 5 ch before and after the shell and 1 
of 3 ch. 

Twelfth Row: S c in 2 ch of shell, t c in 3rd of 5 ch, 
* ch l,t c in same place, repeat from * 3 times, forming a 


large shell, ch 1, s c in next 2 ch, of shell, another large 
shell in 3rd of next 5 ch, and repeat to end of the row. 

Thirteenth Row: S c in each stitch of last row. 

Fasten thread in first p of other edge of the braid, ch 
4, over twice as for t c, st in same p, over and through 

2 sts, over and take a st in middle p of next medallion, 
work sts off 2 at a time, ch 2, d c at the middle of this 
cross-treble, * over twice, st in same p as last st, over and 
through 2 sts, over and take a st in middle of next medal¬ 
lion, finish as in first cross-treble, and repeat from * to 
end of row. 

Second Row: S c in 2 ch, shell of (ch 1, d c, ch 1, 
p, d c, ch 1, p, d c, ch 1, p, d c, ch 1) in next 2 ch, s c in 
next 2 ch, and repeat to end of row. 

Crochet cord to run through the spaces with a ball on 
each end. 

Crochet Edging No. 6 

See Page 3 

Directions: For Towels use Richardson's No. 20 
R. M. C. with No. 6 Hook, and for Doilies or Clothing 
No. 30 and No. 7 Hook. One spool makes about a yard 
of this edging. 

Ch 13, turn and s c in each st, ch 8, skip 4 s c, 3 d c in 
next 3 s c, ch 5, skip 4 s c, d c in next, * turn, 5 s c in 5 ch, 
ch 1, 5 s c in next 5 ch of the 8 ch, ch 8, turn, 5 d c in 1 ch, 
ch 5, d c in last s c, and repeat from * to end of row. 
Across one edge work thus: * ch 3, d c in last of the 5 
s c, ch 3, si st in space, and repeat from *. Make a row 
of 3 ch fastened by si st in last d c of last row. In each 

3 ch make a shell of (si st, s c, si st). 

Crochet Edging No. 7 

See Page 3 

Materials: Richardson’s R. M. C. Cordonnet Special 
No. 30 and No. 8 Hook. 1 spool makes a yard of this 
edging. 

Directions 

Make a ch the length of lace desired and on th£ ch make 
d c in every 3rd ch with 1 ch between. After last d c, ch 
8, turn, 8 s c in 8 sts of ch, turn, 8 s c in 8 s c, turn, make 
5 more rows of s c to complete the thick square, * skip 2 
spaces and t c in d c, ch 8, skip 2 spaces, si st in d c, on 
8 ch work 8 rows of s c, and repeat from * to end of lace. 

For the next row begin at corner of square, ch 6, d c in 
2nd s c (ch 2, skip 1 s c, d c in next), 3 times (2 d c, ch 1, 
2 d c), in corner of square, make 3 spaces on the other side 
of point, and repeat along the outer edge. 

For the last row make a shell of (si st, 3 s c, si st) in 
the 2 ch and at tip of point a shell of (s c, 5 d c, s c). Make 
a row of s c on the other edge of the edging. 


5 


Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET KOOK Cotton 

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Luncheon Set No. 1 


Materials: Six spools of Richardson’s R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 30, Steel Hook No. 7 and a one- 
inch staple. 

For the large doily make a strip of the hairpin work 
40 in. long and join the ends neatly. Fasten the thread 
in a loop of the lace, ch 1, s c in the next loop and repeat 
around the border. 

Second Row: Ch 5, skip 2 loops, s c in next 1 ch, and 
repeat to end of the row. 

Third Row: Two s c in first 5 ch, ch 5, d c in 5 ch 
(ch 2, d c in same 5 ch), 2 times, ch 2, d c in same 5 ch, * 
d c in next 5 ch of second row (d c, 2 ch), 3 times and d c 
in next 5 ch, and repeat from * to end of the row. 

Fourth Row: Two s c in next 2 ch, * ch 5, s c in last 
2 ch of the shell, ch 5, s c in first 2 ch of next shell, and 
repeat from * to end of the row. 

Repeat the third and fourth rows twice more. For 


the next row make the shells same as in the third row. 
For the edge make 5 ch and fasten by s c in every 2 ch 
and in d c between shells of last row. 

Take a 15-inch circle of linen and buttonhole the inner 
edge of the border to the linen. Make an 18-inch strip 
of the hairpin work and baste on the linen 3 inches from 
the outer edge. Buttonhole both edges of the linen and 
cut from beneath. 

For the plate doily make an 18-inch strip of the hairpin 
work. Make the border same as for the large doily 
until 2 rows of shells are made, then finish with 5 ch 
fastened by s c. Join border to an 8-inch circle of linen. 

For the tumbler doily make a 9-inch strip of the hairpin 
work. Make first, second and third rows of the border 
same as in the other borders and finish with the 5 ch row. 

The large center piece, with 6 of the plate doilies and 
6 of the tumbler size, makes a very pretty luncheon set. 


6 



Chicago %IC HARDS ON SILK COMPANY New York 

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Center Piece Border in Crochet and Braid No. 2 


Materials: One spool of Richardson's R. M. C. No. 
20, a No. 6 Hook, and 1 x /i yards each of Rick-Rack and 
Novelty Braid. 

Directions 

First Row: Fasten in a point of the rick-rack, ch 2, 
over for d c, take st in side of point, over and through 2 
sts, over and take st in side of next point, over and through 
2, over and through 3 sts on the hook, ch 2, s c in next 
point, and repeat. 

Second Row: A cross-treble fastened in point and 
d c between points, repeat, having 2 cross-trebles between 
every 2 points. (See illustration.) 

Third Row: * Ch 1, s c in p of novelty braid, ch 1, 
s c in cross-treble, repeat from * in 4 p of medallion, 2 


s c in next cross-treble, long t c with thread over 4 times 
on bar between medallions, ch 4, s c in next st of cross¬ 
treble, 2 s c in next treble and repeat from *. 

Fourth Row: Fasten in bar, * ch 2, s c in first p of 
medallion, ch 2, shell of 7 t c with 1 ch between in middle 
of medallion, ch 2, s c in last p, ch 2, s c in bar, and repeat 
from *. 

Fifth Row: Ch 3, si st in each 1 ch and 2 ch of the 
shell, s c in the bar. (See illustration.) 

On the inner edge of the border make a row same as 
the first. 

Second Row: Same as the first fastening in point of 
braid and between 2 of the 2 ch. 


7 



Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET KOOK Cotton 

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Center Piece Border No. 3 


Materials: 4 spools of Richardson's R. M. C. Cor- 
donnet Special No. 20. and a No. 7 Steel Hook. 

Directions 

Begin with the octagon which forms the center of the 
border with 4 ch joined to form a ring. 

First Row: Ch 3 to take the place of a d c, 1 ch. 
1 d c in the ring, * 3 ch, 1 d c, 1 ch, 1 d c, repeat from * 
twice, 3 ch, join to top of first 3 ch. 

Second Row : Ch 3 for a d c, 1 ch, 1 d c in first st of 
3 ch of last row, 6 ch, 1 d c in second following st, 1 ch, 
and repeat 3 times, and fasten as before. 

Third Row: Ch 3 for a d c, 1 ch, 1 d c in first of 6 
ch, 8 ch, 1 d c in last of 6 ch, 1 ch, 1 d c in next space, 
repeat 3 times and join. 

Fourth Row: Ch 3, 1 ch, * 1 d c in first of 8 ch, 10 
ch, 1 d c in last of 8 ch, 1 ch. 1 d c in each of next 3 spaces 
with 1 ch between, 1 ch, and repeat around from *, join 
and fasten off. 

Make 37 octagons, joining by making 10 s c in 10 ch 
of preceding octagon. 

Work on the inside of the octagons as follows: 

First Row: Fasten in the first d c after the 10 ch, 
work 8 s c in 8 sts down the side, miss the last d c, and 
first d c of next side, 8 s c, turn, 1 ch, miss 1 s c, 4 s c in 
back sts of next 4 s c, draw thread through the next s c 
and corresponding st on the next side, missing 4 s c, and 
work off as 1 s c, 5 s c in the next 5 sts, turn, 1 ch, miss 1 
st, 2 s c in next 2 sts, draw thread through next st and 
through corresponding st on the next side, missing 3 sts, 
and work off as before; 2 s c in next 2 sts, 1 ch, take out 
the needle and insert it in the opposite point and draw 
thread through, then 4 si sts to meet the next 10 ch, 
1 s c in each of the 10 ch, and repeat around the border. 

Second Row: Ch 4 to take the place of a t c, over 
twice and take a st at the base of the 4 ch, over and through 


2 sts, over and missing 2 sts take a st in next s c, work sts 
off 2 at a time, ch 2, d c at the crossing of the sts. This 
forms 1 cross-treble st. Thread over twice, take a st in 
same s c as last cross-treble, and finish in the same way. 

Repeat around the inner edge of border. 

Third Row: (D c, 2 ch, d c) over each cross-treble 
of the last row. 

Finish the outer edge thus: 

First Row: Fasten the d c following the 10 ch, 9 
s c in 9 sts down the side. 9 s c up next side, 10 s c in 10 
ch, and repeat, turn. 

Second Row: Begin in the first d c after the 10 ch, 

8 s c in 8 of the first 9 s c, draw thread through 9th st and 
again through the first st of the next side, and work off 
as 1 d c, 9 s c up the next side, 2 ch, miss 2 sts, 1 d c in 
next, 2 ch, miss 1, 1 d c in the next, 5 ch, 1 d c in same 
place, 2 ch, miss 1, 1 d c, 2 ch, miss 2, and repeat, turn. 

Third Row: Miss first s c, 7 s c, miss 2 s c, 7 s c up 
the other side, 3 ch, 1 d c in first d c, 2 ch, 1 d c in same 
place, 2 ch, 1 d c in third d c, 2 ch, 1 d c in fourth d c, 

3 ch, and repeat to end of the round. 

Fourth Row : Miss 1 s c, 5 s c, draw the thread through 
2 center s c and work off together, 5 s c up the other side, 

4 ch, 1 d c with 2 ch between in each of next 3 d c, 2 c h. 

2 d c with 5 ch between in 5 ch, 2 ch, 1 d c with 2 ch 
between in each of next 3 d c, 4 ch, and repeat to end of 
round, turn. 

Fifth Row: Same as the fourth with 4 s c each side 
of the gusset and 9 open spaces, turn. 

Sixth Row: Two s c in each side of gusset and II 
open spaces. 

Seventh Row: S c in center st of the gusset, 7 ch, 
d c with 2 ch between in each d c to center of the point, 

2 d c with 5 ch between at point and finish same as the 
other rows. < 

Eighth Row: Make a shell of (1 si st. 3 s c, 1 si st) 
in each ch of the edge. 


8 




Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY Nrw York 

..""". . .. 1 . 1111 . . . . .'...........limn...mini.mi...mi.mi 



Center Piece 


Material: Use Richardson's No. 60 R. M. C. Crochet 
Cotton and a No. 10 Hook. 

Fasten 12 medallions of novelty braid in circle. 

Chain 8, join, 6 ch, 4 ch for picot, 5 ch, picot, 5 ch, 

1 d c in 3rd loop of braid, 5 ch, 1 picot, 5 ch, picot, 5 ch, 

2 t c in ring, 5 ch, picot, 5 ch, picot, 5 ch, 1 d c in 3 loop 
of next medallion of braid, * 5 ch, picot, 5 ch, picot, 5 ch, 

2 t c in ring. Repeat from * around the rest of the 
medallions. 

Make 13 of these circles with braid crossing the braid 
between each circle. 

Lower Edge: In 2nd loop of braid * make 4 ch, 

miss 1 loop, 1 t c in next loop, 3 ch, 1 t c in last loop, 

3 ch, 1 t c between medallions, 3 ch, 1 t c in 2nd loop of 

braid, miss 1 loop, 1 t c in next loop, miss 1 loop, 1 t c 
in last loop, 3 ch, 1 t c between medallions, 3 ch, miss 1 
loop, 1 t c in next loop, 3 ch, miss 1 loop, 1 t c in next 

3 ch, 1 t c in last loop, 3 ch, 1 t c between medallions, 

3 ch. Where the 2 medallions come together put hook 
through the 2 loop of each one and make a t c, 3 ch, 1 t c 
between medallions; repeat on all the circles of medallions 
from *. 

Second Row: 3 ch, 2 t c in loop, 2 ch, 3 t c in next 
loop, 2 ch, 3 t c in next loop, 2 ch, 3 t c in next loop, 
repeat. 

There are 12 shells of 3 t c on each circle. 


Third Row: Between the shells of last row make 2 
t c, 2 ch (111 shells in all). 

Fourth Row: Like 3rd Row: 2 t c, 2 ch (9 shells). 

Fifth Row: 4 t c between shells, 1 t c between the 
2 t c of last row and 3 t c in loop, 2 ch, 1 t c between 

2 t c of last 3 t c in loop; repeat (9 shells). 

Sixth Row: Between the shells of last row make 2 
t c, 3 ch (8 shells). 

Seventh Row: Between the shells of last row make 

3 t c in each loop (7 shells). 

Outer Edge: On 5 medallions of each circle repeat 
directions for lower edge from * to *. 

Second Row: Like second row of lower edge except 
there are 20 shells. 

Third Row: 19 shells of 2 t c, 2 ch. 

Fourth Row: 18 shells of 2 t c, 2 ch. 

Fifth Row: 17 shells like fifth row of lower edge. 
Sixth Row: 2 t c, 1 ch, between each shell all around 
the whole center piece. 

Seventh Row: 5 ch, 1 d c between shells all around. 
Eighth Row: 7 d c in each loop. 

Ninth Row: 6 ch, fasten 4 of the st in picot, 4 ch, 
fasten in picot, 4 ch, fasten in picot, 2 ch, 1 d c in center 
of loops of last row; repeat all around. 


9 



Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET <BOOK Cotton 

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Baby’s Crocheted Cap No. 6 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson’s Crochet and 
Knitting Silk, a No. 7 Steel Hook, three yards of Baby 
Ribbon and one yard of No. 3 Ribbon. 

Ch 6 and join to form a ring. 

First Row: 30 d c in the ring, join last to the first. 

Second Row: Ch 5, over twice, take a st in first 
d c, over and through 2, over and through 2, over twice, 
take a st in next d c (over and through 2), 3 times, over 
twice, take a st in next d c, work the sts off 2 at a time, 
s c around the end of the point. Repeat the point until 
10 are made with 5 ch between 

Third Row: 5 d c in each 5 ch and 1 d c in tip of the 
point. 

Fourth Row: Like the second row with 3 ch instead 
of 5. 

Fifth Row: 3 d c in 3 ch and 1 d c in the point. 

Sixth Row: Like the fourth. 


Seventh Row: Like the fifth. 

Eighth Row: Ch 4, 4 d c in 4 d c, s c in the next, 
ch 4, 4 d c in next 4 d c, s c in next and repeat to end of 
the row, s c in 4 ch, turn. 

Ninth Row: Ch 4, 4 d c in 4 ch, s c in next 4 ch, and 
repeat to end of row. Turn at end of each row. 

Tenth Row: Leave 6 shells at neck and finish as 
ninth row. 

Repeat 10th row 11 times, then make 2 more rows all 
around the cap. 

First Row of Edge: Point like second row between 
2 shells, ch 1, d c in second d c of shell, ch 1, point between 
next 2 shells and repeat around. 

Second Row: Shell of (2 ch, d c, p, ch 1, d c, p, ch 1, 
d c, p, ch 1, d c, ch 2) in each point and s c in the d c 
between points. 

Use ribbon as seen in the illustration. 


10 



Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 

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Silk Baby Shoes 


Use Perfect Knitting silk No. 24 and No. 20. Grecian 
silk for Rosebuds 1122, and Leaves 1135. Four of these 
cross-stitches are made on the turnover of shoe, and one 
across the top. 

Afgan st for the top of shoe. Ch 4 sts, put hook in 
st next to needle and draw loop through; repeat twice. 
You now have 4 loops on hook; slip over hook and draw 
through 1 st, over and through 2 sts, over and through 
2, over and through 2. 

Second Row: Take up a loop in the 1st st of the row 
below, then one between the 1st and 2nd sts, then 1 loop 
in the other sts to the end, 6 sts in all; draw through 
1st st, and then through 2 sts, together to the end. 

Third Row: Same as 2nd row except that it is widened 
at each end by putting a loop between the 2nd and 3rd 
sts from each end. Continue increasing 1 st at each end 


until there are 30 sts; draw off the loops, fasten and cut 
off silk. 

For the Strip Around Sole: Fasten on the colored 
silk in the 1st st of the 30 sts of the front part and take 
up 14 loops in d c, ch 1, st, turn and in the back part of 
st make 14 d c, ch 1, st, turn, repeat until there are 36 
ribs; then join to the other side of front. 

For the Turnover in White Silk: Make a ch of 
13 sts, and work 54 rows of plain afghan st; then si st 
across the end sts, and make 4 ch, * skip 2, 1 t c, in next 
2 ch, and repeat from * to other end; then put it inside 
the colored strip and join around by d c, caught into both 
parts of work. 

The turnover is finished on the outside edge by 4 d c, 
and picot of 4 ch caught back into 1st st, 4 d c, repeated 
around in color. Sew to soles. 





Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET KOOK Cotton 


Filet Crochet 

I LET CROCHET has become very popular with 
a great many needleworkers. It is easy to do, is 
very effective and may be adapted to a great 
variety of uses. The terms used are the same 
as in ordinary crochet, and the work consists of squares 
or blocks. Any cross-stitch pattern may be used for 
filet crochet by counting the squares. Each block is 
formed of 4 d c. When several blocks are made in 
succession the number of d c is 3 times the number of 
blocks plus 1 d c. For instance, in 3 blocks there are 10 
d c. A space is formed of 2 d c with 2 ch between. 

If a row starts with a space, ch 6 to turn, and if it 
starts with a block ch 3 to take the place of the first d c. 
Always insert the needle through 2 threads of the previous 
row. Make each d c over d c and when a block comes 
over a space make 2 d c in the 2 ch. 

The most satisfactory results are secured by using as 
fine a needle as will carry the thread. The work should 
be tight and firm. If the work is loose and stretchy 
the pattern does not show well. 

The designs illustrated on the following pages are 
not at all intricate and may be worked out easily by 
counting the spaces and blocks as seen in the illustrations 
and following the above general directions. 



12 




Chicago RICHARDS ON SILK COMPANY New York 



13 



Silk %1 CHARD SON’S CROCHET TOOK Cotton 

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Filet Corner No. 1 

See page 13 

Materials: If for napkins, use Richardson's No. 50 
R. M. C. Cordonnet Special and No. 9 Hook. For 
handkerchiefs, use No. 70 R. M. C. and No. 12 Hook. 
At the bias edge end the row with ate across the last 
space and begin next row with 3 ch. 

Filet Insertion No. 2 

See page 13 

For towels use Richardson's No. 30 R. M. C. with a 
No. 8 Hook. This insertion may also be widened by 
increasing the number of blocks in the angle. 

Insertions Nos. 3, 4, 6 and 8, may be worked from illus¬ 
tration and used for various purposes. Number of thread 
and hook same as in previous ones illustrated. 

Filet Insertion for Bedspread No. 4 

See page 13 

Materials: Richardson's No. 5 R. M. C. Cordonnet 
Special and No. 3 Steel Hook. One spool will make 
18 inches. 

This pattern may also be used for a bedspread and may 
be increased in width by adding to the number of blocks 
in the four straight bars in the squares but still having 
2 rows of open spaces between bars. (See illustration.) 

Pin Cushion Cover No. 5 

See page 13 

Materials: One ball Richardson's R. M. C. Cor¬ 
donnet No. 70 or 2 balls of Tatting Silk, and No. 9 Steel 
Hook. 


Make the filet square for the center over the pattern. 

For the edge, fasten thread in middle of the 15th 
space from right corner, ch 5, turn back, skip 6 sts, si st 
in next, p of 5 sts, in the 5 ch make (sc, 8 d c, s c), si 
st in si st and in each of next 6 sts, ch 5, turn back, si st 
in first si st, turn, s c and 4 d c in 5 ch, turn, 5 ch, s c in 
center of the first shell, p, turn (s c, 8 d c, s c), in the 5 ch 
4 d c, s c in first half of 5 ch, si st in si st and in next 6 
of the foundation, ch 5, turn, si st in si st, turn, s c and 4 
d c in 5 ch. turn, 5 ch, si st in center of shell, p (s c, 8 d c 
and s c), in 5 ch si st in si st, finish next 2 shells, si st in 
si st and in next 6 sts, ch 5, turn, work up to top of the 
point as before, then work back, making 3 p on the left 
side to correspond with the 3 on the right side. 

Work to the corner with si st and p in every 6th st. 
At the corner make small point in same manner as large 
one. Repeat around the square. (See Illustration.) 

Filet Lace and Insertion for Tea 
Cloth No. 7 

See page 13 

Materials: For a cloth one yard square, 8 spools of 
Richardson’s R. M. C. Cordonnet Special No. 30 and a 
No. 8 Steel Hook. 

In forming the corner work straight to the outer edge 
with the number of spaces following the pattern; then 
on the upper edge start the second side with the same 
number of spaces as seen in illustration. To increase 
a space at point of outer edge ch 6, turn, d c in 4th and 
5th from the hook and over last d c of last row. To 
decrease make block in last space and t c in last d c of 
next block. Finish the outer edge with a row of shells 
each of (2 ch, 8 d c, 2 ch), one shell each side of the point 
and one at tip of the point as seen in the illustration. 

This lace is 3 inches wide and the insertion 1inches. 


14 


Chicago 


%ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY 


New York 


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Filet Yoke 


for Corset Cover 


No. 8 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson’s R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 50 and No. 9 Hook. 

Directions 

The work is 14 blocks wide and can be done by following 
the pattern as illustrated and the general instructions 
for filet. 

Begin the work at the side of front in middle of a bow- 
knot and work across the front, making half of a knot and 
2 whole ones, ending with a row of open spaces. Take 
14 spaces and work over the shoulder, making 7 rows of 
spaces, then one bow-knot, then 7 more spaces and half 
a knot to correspond with front corner and ending with 


a row of spaces. Take 14 spaces on the side and work 
the back same as front; then the other shoulder, finishing 
with the other half of the first bow-knot. (See illustration.) 

To form strip under the arm, take 14 spaces and work 
spaces only decreasing a space at arm edge every alternate 
row until 6 spaces are left, then 10 rows of 6 spaces. Work 
this way on the other 3 corners and join under arms. 

At the lower edge make a row of s c. 

At the inner edge make a row of cross-treble through 
which to run ribbon. Over every 2 trebles make a shell 
of (2 ch, t c, p, 1 ch, t c, p, 1 ch, t c, p, 1 ch, t c, 2 ch), 
fasten by si st. Repeat this shell around the inner edge 
of the yoke. 


15 


%■ . 




Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET TOOK Cotton 

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Filet Yoke with Sleeves 


Material: Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet Cotton 
No. 60 and a Steel Hook No. 10. 

Chain 213 

First Row: Make 71 meshes, chain of 2 between each. 
(See illustration.) 

Second Row: Make 7 meshes 4 d c, 13 m (meshes), 
4 d c, 13 m to end, and with 7th m, chain 5 and turn. 

Third Row: 6 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 2 m, 4 d c. 1 m, 
4 d c, and ch to end. End with 6 m, ch 5 and turn. 

Fourth Row: 5 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 9 m, 
4 d c, 1 m, and ch to end. End with 5 m, ch 5 and turn. 

Fifth Row: 4 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 

4 d c, 7 m, 4 d c, 1 m and ch to end. End with 4 m, ch 

5 and turn. 

Sixth Row: 3 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 

4 d c. 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 5 m, 4 d c, 1 m and ch to end. 

End with 3 m, ch 5, and turn. 

Seventh Row: 2 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 

4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 3 m, 4 d c, 1 m 

and ch to end. End with 2 m, ch 5, and turn. 

Eighth Row: 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c to end and ch 5, 
then turn. 

Ninth Row: 2 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 

4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 2 m on end, ch 

5 and turn. Continue each row to decrease, 4 d c and in¬ 

crease 2 m, until diamond is complete. 

Fifteenth Row: 71 m, ch 57, an extra 5 ch, turn. 

Sixteenth Row: 40 m, 4 d c, 13 m, 4 d c, 13 m, 
4 d c, 21 m, join, ch 5 and turn. 

Seventeenth Row: 39 m, 4 d c, 1 m, 4 d c, 11 m, 
4 d c and ch until another row of diamonds is complete 
(3 diamonds in a row, instead of 5), joining each row to 
form sleeve; for other rows continue in same way. (See 
illustration.) 


Twenty-ninth Row: Make a row of meshes, 2 
stitches between each. 

Thirtieth Row: Make a row of meshes, 1 stitch 
between each. 

Thirty-first Row: Make 27 m, 1 stitch between. 
45 double chain catching in every other stitch. 12 m, 
1 stitch between. Continue until 5 rows of double chain 
are on top of sleeve. 

Thirty-fifth Row: D c into every stitch. 

Thirty-sixth Row: Make row of m, 2 stitches 
between, skip 2 stitches. 

Thirty-seventh Row: Chain 3 d c into 1st m, ch 
3, 1 single chain into next m, ch 3, 3 d c into next 2 
m, ch 3, 1 single chain into next m, and continue 
around. 

Thirty-eighth Row: Ch 3, catch with s c into middle 
of 3 d c of previous row, * ch 4 s c in same stitch, ch 5, 
s c in same stitch, ch 4, s c in same stitch, ch 4, skip to 
next group of 3 d c and repeat from *. This completes 
sleeve. Break thread and commence back at the 1st 
diamond. Make a row of 4 diamonds to form front, 
then to last row of 4th diamond, ch 168 and make a row 
across of m. 

First Row: 7 m, 4 d c, 13 m, 4 d c, and ch just as in 
other sleeve. When completed make the strip of diamonds 
for back like front. For beading in bottom, join thread 
to bottom of yoke and ch 12, shell of 4 d c in 4th stitch 
of ch, chain 7, skip 7 of ch and make shell of 4 ch, m 8th 
ch join to bottom of yoke. Ch 1 and turn. Shell of 
4 in middle of shell ch 7, skip to shell and make shell of 
4 in it, d c into last stitch, ch 3 and turn, make shell of 4, 
ch 7, skip to shell, make ch of 4, join to yoke; make 1 
ch, turn, make shell, ch 7, make shell, d c in last stitch, 
chain 3, turn, shell of 4, chain 7, shell of 4, join to yoke, 
ch 1. turn, shell ch 3, join into middle of 1st ch of 7, ch 
3, make shell, repeat, always leaving 2 ch of 7 between 
each group that are caught together. 


16 



Chicago %1CH ARDS ON SILK COMPANY New York 

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Night Dress Yoke in Crochet No. 5 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson's R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 40 and a No. 7 Steel Hook. 

Begin in center of the side with a ch of 39 sts. 

First Row: Skip 1 ch, 2 s c in next 2 ch, * ch 3, skip 
3 ch, 2 s c in next 2 ch, repeat from * 6 more times, ch 5, 
turn. 

Second Row: Two s c in first 3 ch, * ch 3, 2 s c in 
next 3 ch, repeat from * 6 times. Repeat the last row 
until the strip is 4 inches long. 

In next row work to last 5 ch and skip it, turn and work 
back, then in each of the succeeding alternate rows leave 
the last 5 ch free until last row is 5 ch and 1 group of 
2 s c. 

For next row, ch 5, turn back, 2 s c in 5 ch, ch 5, turn, 
2 s c in 5 ch, ch 3, 2 s c in next 5 ch, ch 5, turn, 2 s c in 3 
ch, ch 3, 2 s c in 5 ch, ch 5, turn. Repeat the pattern, 
catching 2 s c in 5 ch skipped in every alternate row until 
the 8 chains of 5 which were left in forming the corner 


are all used again. (See illustration.) The pattern now 
is same as in the start. Work 8 inches for one side, then 
decrease for next corner same as before. Finish the yoke 
in this way, making it 12 in. square at outer edge. Join 
last row to the first if yoke is to slip over the head; if to 
be open leave the 2 ends loose for center of front. 

At the inner edge make a row of cross-treble through 
which to run the ribbon or cord. To make cross-treble, 
ch 4, over twice, take a st in first of the 4, over and through 
2 sts, over and skipping 2 sts of edge take a st in next, 
work sts on hook off 2 at a time, ch 2, d c at crossing of 
treble. Repeat around the edge. In every alternate cross¬ 
treble make a shell of 5 d c with 1 ch between, fastening 
by s c in next 2 ch of cross-treble. 

For edge ch 3, s c in each 1 ch of shells. Around the 
outer edge make a row of s c in each st 

A straight strip of the pattern may be used for each 
sleeve, finishing edges same as the yoke. 


17 



Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET WOOD Cotton 

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Filet Yoke for Night Dress No. 9 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson's R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 50 and a No. 9 Hook. 

Begin at the end of front edge with 15 spaces, and follow 
the pattern until 2 clover leaves are made. In last row 
of second leaf ch 42, and in returning make 10 spaces 
on the ch and 15 along to the upper edge. Follow the 
pattern until the square of 4 clover leaves is made; then 
on the 15 spaces continue until 2 more leaves are made. 
Take 15 spaces on upper edge at the end and work 4 
leaves for shoulder. Make back straight across with 6 


leaves in width same as front. Finish the other 
shoulder. 

Make a row of small shells at the lower edge of yoke. 
On the inner edge make a row of clover leaves thus: 
Fasten thread in edge, ch 9, catch back in 4th from hook 
to form a ring. In this ring make 3 shells each of ’(si st, 
s c, 4 d c, s c, si st), ch 3, skip 2 spaces on edge, s c over 
next 2 spaces, and repeat the clover leaf, joining first shell 
to center of last shell in first leaf (see illustration) all 
around the inner edge of yoke. 


18 




Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 



mmmmy , 






Yoke with Novelty Braid 


Material: Use Richardson's R. M. C. Cordonnet 
Crochet Special No. 50 and a No. 10 Crochet Hook. 

On a strip of plain braid make 1 t c in each loop and 
1 ch between (258 t c). 

On the other side of this strip fasten to loop 5 ch, miss 
one loop, si st in next loop, 5 ch, miss 1 loop, si st in next 
loop; repeat across. There are 128 chain loops. 

Take another strip of plain braid, fasten in loop of 
braid 2 ch, 1 si st in middle of chain loop on the other 
strip of braid 2 ch, 1 si st in loop of braid, 2 ch, 1 si st 
in next ch loop, 2 ch, 1 si st in loop of braid; repeat across. 

On the other side of this strip make two rows of ch 
loops. 

Cut off 11 medallions of turtle braid and sew the ends 
fast; then fasten thread in 3rd loop, 6 ch, 1 t c in same st, 

1 ch, 1 d c in the center of loop of the other strip of braid 
with the two rows of loops, 1 ch, miss one loop of braid, 

2 t c in next loop, 1 ch, 1 d c in next ch, loop 1 ch, 2 
t c in last loop of braid and 2 in the 1st loop of the next 
medallion; 1 d c in next ch, loop, miss one loop of braid 2 
t c in next loop, 1 ch, 1 d c in next ch, loop 1 ch, 2 t c in 
next loop, 1 ch, 1 d c in next ch, loop 1 ch, miss 1 loop of 
braid; 2 t c in last loop and 1 st loop of next medalllion, 
1 d c in ch loop. 

There are 4 groups of 2 t c on each medallion of fronts, 


leave 11 ch loops for sleeve, cut off 15 medallions for back 
and fasten ends; work 4 groups of t c on each medallion 
the same as fronts joining to chain loops. 

For the sleeves: Take a strip of the plain braid and 
make loops of 5 ch, miss one loop of braid, 1 si st in next 
(59 loops), sew braid together, cut off 21 medallions and 
lap 1st and last together and sew. Then make a row of 
t c the same as the fronts and back. On the outside of 
the plain braid make ch loops of 4 ch (60 loops); then 
3 ch, 1 t c in loop, 2 ch, 2 t c in next loop, 2 ch, 2 t c in 
next; repeat around. 

Next row loops of 4 ch, 1 d c on 2 ch, 4 ch; repeat 
around. 

Last row: 3 d c in loop, 1 picot, 2 d c, picot, 3 d c, 

1 d c in next loop, 1 picot, 1 d c, 5 ch, catch back between 
the 2 picots of 1st loop; in this loop make 3 d c, picot 

2 d c, picot, 4 d c, 1 d c in unfinished loop below, picot, 

3 d c. Repeat this all around sleeves. 

Take another strip of plain braid and makech loops of 

4 ch (180) loops; work the other side of medallions like the 
first side and make loops across where the sleeve joins 
front. 

The upper edge of the plain braid has ch loops, then a 
row of 3 t c in each loop with 3 ch between next row, 
2 t c on each ch 3, with 3 ch between last row like 
sleeve; 2 rows of d c across ends of fronts. 


19 



Silk 


%ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET WOOK 


Cotton 


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Filet Crochet for Table Runner No. 12 


Materials: Eight spools of Richardson's Linen 
Colored R. M. C. No. 30 and a No. 7 Hook. 

Directions 

Count blocks and spaces in the border at the end, and 
leave 3 spaces at outer edge of points. After 10 rows are 
made for 1st point ch 32, work 10 spaces on ch and con¬ 
tinue pattern. For the deep point in center make 62 
ch and work 20 spaces on it. At inner edge, in turning, 
make a d c diagonally across the last space. When the 
12th row of deep point is finished, begin in 13th row to 
increase a space at upper end of the row for 10 rows 
which starts the insertion which extends up the center. 
In the next row take 10 spaces and begin the next small 


point and work as at first, making 2 more points. On 
the spaces and blocks at the top continue the pattern until 
the insertion is long enough. In making turns to keep 
the insertion the same width, at the upper turn ch 6, 
s c in 1st of the 6 ch, and in the return row d c in 6 ch, 
ch 1, d c in same place, which increases the spaces 1 each 
row. At the lower turn, ch 5, and in the return row d c 
in end of 5 ch. 

Finish the other end of border same as the first. Along 
the edges of insertion make s c in each st. All around the 
points and up the sides of the runner make a row of shells 
each of (2 ch, 5 t c, 2 ch), and at tip of point a shell with 
8 t c. Fasten shells with si sts. 


20 






Ch 


tea go 


%ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY 


New York 


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Pillow Ornamented with Filet Square and Strip and Lace on the Ends 

No. 11 


Materials: Four spools of Richardson's R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 30 in Ecru, a No. 7 Steel Hook, 
and Blue Linen for the Pillow. 

Directions 

Make the square following the pattern as shown in the 
illustration with 32 blocks each side. Strip can also be 
made from pattern as illustrated with 23 blocks in width. 
Make ends pointed and all of open spaces. Decrease 
a block at the end in alternate rows to form point. Any 
pattern of filet crochet insertion may be substituted for 
this one. 

Lace for the ends is made thus: Ch 6 and join in a 
ring, ch 2, d c in ring, ch 2, turn (d c, 2 ch, d c), in 2 ch, 


ch 5, si st in 1st 2 ch, turn, shell of (1 s c, 6 d c, 1 s c) in 

5 ch, ch 2 (d c, 2 ch, d c), in 2 ch, ch 2, turn (d c, 2 ch, 

d c), in 5 ch, si st in 2 ch, turn (s c, 3 d c), in 5 ch, turn, 
5 ch, si st in center of first shell, turn, shell in 5 ch (3 d c, 
s c), to finish shell in next 5 ch, ch 2 (d c, 2 ch, d c), in 
2 ch, turn, ch 2 (d c, 2 ch, d c), in 2 ch, ch 5, si st in 2 ch, 
turn, half shell in 5 ch, turn, 5 ch, si st in center of shell, 

turn, half shell in 5 ch, turn, 5 ch, si st in center of next 

shell, turn, shell in 5 ch, finish the 2 shells at side. Work 
this way until the point is deep enough. This one has 
4 shells each side. Make strip long enough for end of 
pillow. Across the top make 3 ch with si st in every 2 ch 
across. Sew lace to ends and square and strip as 
illustrated. 


21 



Silk %I CHARD SON’S CROCHET KOOK Cotton 




Tatting Instructions 

Abbreviations used: 


d s 

P 

ch 

1 P 
* 

r 

c 1 


double stitch or double knot 

.picot 

.chain 

long picot 
. . . repetition mark 

.ring 

. . . . clover leaf 


In making tatting a small shuttle not more than 2 3^ 
inches long is best for all threads except the very coarse. 
For a heavy thread a large shuttle is necessary to carry 
enough thread to avoid making knots too frequently. 
We recommend the Justrite easy-winding shuttle, with or 
without pick. They are more convenient and can be 
taken apart for filling. 

Thread used for tatting must be smooth and hard- 
twisted in order to make firm, even work. Richardson's 
Tatting Silk is an ideal thread for this work. 

By d s or double stitch is meant the stitch formed 
by the two movements of the shuttle—one over and one 
under. The picots add much to the beauty of the work 
and make it look lacy. They are also used in joining 
different parts of the work, and should be of even length. 
Rings are made with the shuttle thread only, and the 
chains with both the shuttle and spool threads. Care 
should be used to have sts of chains come up close to the 
rings. By using one thread colored and one white many 
pretty edges can be made for towels, handkerchiefs, etc. 

In presenting the following designs our aim has been 
to give patterns which are not too intricate for the 
average worker, and to combine beauty and usefulness. 


22 








Chicago RICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 





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23 




Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET ’TOOK Cotton 

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Center Piece Border of Tatting and Braid No. 13 

See page 23 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson’s R. M. C. 
Cordonnet No. 30 in Ecru, 2 yds. of Novelty Braid and 
y 2 yd. of heavy Ecru Linen. 

Make the tatting wheel thus: Ring of 8 p with 2 d s 
between, tie and cut threads; large ring of 4 d s, p, 3 d s, 
5 p with 2 d s between, 3 d s, p, 4 d s, fasten on the spool 
thread, ch of (6 d s, join to p of center, 6 d s), turn; another 
large ring joined to the first by first p. Alternate rings 
and chains until 8 of each are made, joining last ch to 
first large ring. Join 4 of the large rings to the braid 
each to 2 scallops of braid with 1 scallop between. (See 
illustration.) Place wheels on alternate sides of the braid 


with 6 scallops of braid between wheels at the inner 
edge and 10 scallops between at the outer edge. 

Make 13 wheels each side of the braid. Make the inner 
edge as follows: Ring of 3 d s, 3 p, with 3 d s between, 
3 d s, ch of 6 d s, turn, another ring joined to large ring of 
wheel; repeat until 5 rings are joined to the wheel and 6 
at the upper edge, ch 10, 2 rings each of 4 d s, 4 p with 
3 d s between, joined to each other and to scallop of braid 
on each side (see illustration), ch 10; repeat, joining next 
5 rings to 5 scallops of braid. 

Join to linen with any desired finish at the edge. 


Luncheon Set with Tatted Borders No. 14 

See page 23 


Materials: Six Spools of Richardson's R. M. C. 
Cordonnet Special No. 30, and two yards of Heavy Linen. 

For the large doily begin with a clover leaf made thus: 
Ring of 5 d s, 5 p with 2 d s between, 5 d s; then for next 
ring 5 d s, join to 1st p of ring, 7 p with 2 d s between, 
5 d s, and 3rd ring like the first. Fasten on the second 
thread and make a ch of 10 d s, turn, ring of 5 d s, 3 p 
with 5 d s between, 5 d s, ch of 10 d s, turn, another 
clover leaf like the first, joining 1st ring to middle p of 
last ring of first clover leaf, ch of 10 d s, and repeat until 
there are 62 clover leaves at the outer edge. Join last 
ch to first clover leaf. 

For the inner row make a ring of 5 d s, p, 5 d s, join to 
ring of the first row, ch of 10 d s, turn, ring of 4 d s, 3 p 
with 4 d s between, 4 d s, ch of 10 d s, turn, another ring 


like the first joined to the first by 1 st p and to ring of 
first row by the 2d p, ch of 10 d s; turn and repeat until 
this row has as many rings as the first row. (See illus¬ 
tration.) 

The next sized doily has a border same as the outer 
row of the large one, with 42 clover leaves and rings. 

The third sized doily has border like the previous one 
except the large ring of the clover leaf has 6 p instead 
of 7, the ch 8 d s instead of 10, and single rings 4 d s 
between picots instead of 5. Border has 32 clover leaves 
and rings. 

The tumbler doily has 22 clover leaves like in last doily, 
ch of 6 d s, and inner ring of 3 p with 3 d s between. 

Join the border to the linen centers with any desired 
finish. 


24 


Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 

MIUlHIIIUIIIIimilllllUUIIIIIHIIIHIIUIIIIinMIlMnilllllllUllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllimillllUIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIUIIIIIIIIIIUIIIlnilllllllllllllllllllllllllllMIIIIHIIinillllllllllllHIIIIHIIIlllllllllllllllllllllllll 

4 



Tray Cover in Tatting and Braid No. 1 

See page 25 


Materials: One spool of Richardson's R. M. C. No. 
40, and 1yds. of Straight Novelty Braid. 

Directions 

Ring of 6 d s, p, 6 d s, ch of 4 d s, 3 p separated by 2 
d s, 4 d s, * another r joined to the first r by the p, another 
ch, another r joined in the same place, another ch joining 
each of the 3 p to p of the braid (see illustration), another 
r, another ch joined to the 3rd ch by the middle p; repeat 
from * around the border, leaving 2 p of the braid between 


the chains at the ends of doily and 3 p between at the 
sides. 

For the inner edge fasten thread in a p of braid and 
crochet a row thus: Ch 4, over twice for a t c in next p, 
* ch 2, over twice and st through the next p, over and 
through 2 sts, over twice and st in next p; work all the 
sts off 2 at a time; repeat from *. 

Join the border to the doily in any preferred manner. 
The border may be used on a round doily. If to be used 
on a round one, leave 3 p on braid between chains all 
around the border. 


25 




Silk %ICHARDSON’S CROCHET <BOOK Cotton 

....mm.mi...................... 


Platter Doily in Tatting No. 2 

See page 25 


Materials: One spool of Richardson's R. M. C. No. 
20 and Heavy Butcher's Linen for the Center. 

Directions 

Make a large c 1 each r of 5 d s, 5 P with 2 d s between, 
5 d s, 2nd r joined to 1st by 1st p, and 3rd to 2nd by 1st p. 
Fasten on the spool thread and make a ch of 4 d s, p, 
4 d s, turn, r of 2 d s, join to 2nd p of r of c 1, 2 d s, turn, 


ch of 4 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 4 d s, turn, another r 
joined to next p of c 1, another ch, another r joined to 
p of 1st r and also to 2nd r of the c 1, another ch, and 
repeat same as first side of the figure, joining last ch to 
beginning of c 1, and cut threads. Make 19 more of these 
figures, or for a larger doily increase the number. Join 
figures to each other by the middle p of the 2nd chain. 

Attach to edge of doily with any desired finish. 


Platter Doily in Tatting and Rick-Rack Braid No. 3 

See page 25 


Materials: One spool of Richardson's R. M. C. No. 
30 and 134 yds- of No. 4 braid with deep points. Use a 
steel crochet hook to pull the thread through the points 
of braid. 

Directions 

Begin with the large wheel at the end. R of 8 p with 

2 d s between, tie and cut the threads. Around this make 
a row of 8 r and ch alternating, r of 3 d s, 3 p with 3 d s 
between and joined to center r by 2nd p, ch of 4 d s, 3 p 
with 2 d s between, 4 d s. Join rings to each other by 
1st p. Around this make another row of rings and chains 
thus: * r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s, turn, 
ch of 4 d s, join to p of wheel, 4 d s, turn, r of 4 d s, 5 p 
with 3 d s between, 4 d s, 4 d s joined to 1st r by 1st p, 
turn, ch of 4 d s, join to 3rd p of ch in wheel, 4 d s, and re¬ 
peat from * until 8 each of large and small rings and chains 
are made. Join 7 large rings and 6 small ones to points 
of the braid as seen in the illustration. 

On the outside of the braid on each side of this wheel 
make another just like it joining 4 each of the large and 
small rings to points of braid, leaving 1 5 points at the end 
on the outer edge between these 2 wheels. 

At the inner edge on each side make a bar thus: * r of 

3 d s, 3 p with 3 d s between, 3 d s, ch of 4 d s, 3 p with 


2 d s between, 4 d s, repeat from * twice, another r, the 
4 rings joined by 1st p and chains joined to the braid 
as seen in the illustration, ch of 4 d s. Make 4 rings and 3 
chains on the other side, joining each r to the one on the 
opposite side by its middle p. Leave 5 points of braid 
free at the inner edge between the wheel and bar. 

At the outer edge each side make a small wheel like the 
one in center of first large wheel; leave 6 points of braid 
at outer edge and join 5 chains to points as seen in illus¬ 
tration Leave 3 points at inner edge and make 2 more 
bars Leave 6 points at outer edge and make small 
wheel each side, then 3 more bars and 2 more small wheels 
each side, counting points of braid between as seen in 
picture, then 3 more large wheels same as in the beginning. 

At the inner edge each side of the large wheel make a 
c 1 to fill the spaces, each r of 4 d s, 5 p with 2 d s between, 
4 d s, join to braid and wheel by picots. 

All around the inner edge make a row of rings and chains 
alternating, the r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s, 
and ch of 4 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 4 d s. Join rings 
to each other by 1st p and chains to the part already 
made by middle p as seen in illustration. 

Make center of doily oval shaped to fit the border. 


26 


Chicago %IC HARDS ON SILK COMPANY Ncw York 

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII 



Tatting Edging No. 1 

See page 27 

Materials: Same as in the other edgings. 

Make a c 1 first r of 3 d s, p, 4 d s, p, 4 d s, p, 3 d s, 2nd 
r of 3 d s, join, 2 d s, 4 p with 2 d s between, 3 d s, 3rd 
r of same number of sts as first, with 2 threads make ch 
of 3 d s, 2 p with 2 d s between, 3 d s, join to middle p 
of last r, another ch, turn, another c 1 joined to p of first 
c 1 as seen in illustration. 

Tatting Insertions No. 2 

See page 27 

Materials: Same as in other edgings. 

R of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s, ch of 6 d s, 
turn, another r same as 1st, ch 6 d s, turn, another r 
joined to 1st by 1st p, and repeat, joining rings of each 
row to each other. 


Tatting Edging No. 3 

See page 27 

Materials: For Handkerchiefs use Richardson’s Tat¬ 
ting Silk, or R. M. C. No. 50, and for Wearing Apparel 
use No. 40 R. M. C. 

* R of 4 d s, 5 p with 2 d s between, 4 d s, turn, leave 
inch of thread, r of 3 d s, 3 p with 3 d s between, 3 
d s, turn, r of 4 d s, join, 1 d s, p, 1 d s, p, 4 d s, turn, 
another r like the 2nd and repeat from *. 

Tatting Edging No. 4 

See page 27 

R of 6 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 6 d s, another r close 
to this one, ch of 4 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 4 d s, turn, 
another r joined to 2nd r by 1st p (see illustration), turn, 
another r, turn, another ch, and repeat. 


27 



Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET <BOOK Cotton 

lllllllHIIIIIMIIMUIIIIUIIIIIIIIUIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIUIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIHIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMMIIIIMIIIIIIIIIlirilllllMIIJIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIINIIIIIINIIIIIIIIIIIIJIIIIIIIIIIIIII 


Tatted Handkerchief Edges 

Materials: Richardson's Tatting Silk in White and 
Pink or Blue, and a Small Justrite Shuttle. 

No. 5 

See page 27 

Make c 1 thus: R of 6 d s, p, 6 d s, large r of 6 d s, 
join, 2 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 2 d s, p, 6 d s, another 
small r joined to last r by 1st p. Join next c 1 to first by 
p of 1st small r. Leave a half inch of thread between 
clover leaves. 

No. 6 

See page 27 

R of 6 d s, p, 2 d s, p, 6 d s, p, 6 d s, p, 2 d s, p, 5 d s, 
p, close, fasten on the spool thread, ch of 3 d s, 4 p with 2 
d s between, 3 d s, another r joined to last p of the first 
r by the middle p (see illustration), and repeat from the 
first. The color may be used for one thread. 

No. 7 

See page 27 

With the colored thread in the shuttle make a r of 4 
d s, p, 4 d s, fasten on white thread, ch 2 d s, p, 2 d s, 
r of 1 d s, p, 1 d s, ch 2 d s, p, 2 d s. Another r like the 
first, and repeat. Instead of p in colored r, it may be 
joined to edge of handkerchief. 

No. 8 

See page 27 

R of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s, turn, r of 4 
d s, p, 4 d s, turn, another r like the 1st joined to it by 


1st p, turn, r of 4 d s, join to p of small r, 1 d s, 5 p with 
1 d s between, 4 d s, turn, another r like the 1st, turn, 
another small r joined to large r by p. Repeat from the 
beginning. 

Tatted Lace No. 9 

See page 27 

Materials: Richardson’s Tatting Silk or R. M. C. 
No. 50. 

Directions 

Begin with the c 1 each r of 5 d s, 8 p with 2 d s between. 

5 d s, fasten on spool thread, ch 6 d s, p, 2 d s, p, 2 d s, 
p, 4 d s, turn, r of 2 d s, p, 2 d s, join to 2nd p of c 1, 2 
d s, p, 2 d s. Ch of 4 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 4 d s. 
Alternate the r and ch until 12 rings and 11 chains are 
made, joining rings to each other and to picots of the c 1 
as seen in illustration, ch like the 1st joining to 1st p of 
1st ch by last p. Fasten threads in center of c 1. Repeat 
these figures joining by middle p of 2 chains. 

Across the top make a double row of rings with ch 
between, r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s, and ch 
of 4 d s. Join rings of each row to each other, and lower 
row to figures as seen in illustration. 

Tatted Edging and Insertion No. 10 

See page 27 

Materials: Richardson's Tatting Silk, or R. M. C. 
No. 50. 

Make c 1 each r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s 
fasten by 1st p, with 2 threads make ch of 6 d s, turn, 
r same as in c 1, ch 6, join to middle p of last r of c 1, ch 6, 
turn, another r, ch 6, turn, another c 1 joined to the first 
by p. Repeat. 

For the insertion make clover leaves both sides with ch 

6 between. 


28 


Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 

iiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiimiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiM^ 



Tatted Handbag No. 18 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson's Crochet and 
Knitting Silk and a 3-in. Justrite Easy-wind or a rubber 
Shuttle. 

Directions 

Begin in the center of the side with a large r of 12 long 
p separated by 2 d s, tie and cut the threads. Around 
this r make a double row of rings with chains between. 
R in the inner row is 2 d s, p, 2 d s, join to p of center, 
2 d s, p, 2 d s, fasten on the spool thread and make ch 
of 6 d s, turn, r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 4 d s, 
ch 6 d s, turn, another small r joined to 1st by 1st p. 
Make 12 small rings, 24 chains and 12 large rings. Join 
every 2 large r to each other by 1st p. For next row make 
18 rings and chains alternating, r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s 
between, 4 d s, and joined to middle p of r in last row. 
Ch is 4 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 4 d s. Make 2 rings 
the size given above, then every 3rd r of 4 d s, join to last 
r, 4 d s, join to p of r of last row, 1 d s, p, Ids, join to p 
of next r of last row, 4 d s, p, 4 d s. 

The next row is rings and chains alternating; small 
r in inner row is same as in last row and large r at outer 
edge same as the one in group of 2 in last row. Ch is 


3 d s, p, 3 d s. Rings of each row are joined to each other 
and 2 small rings are joined to each ch of last row. 

At the top on each side make a c 1 each r of 4 d s, 5 p 
with 2 d s between, 4 d s, and 2 of the r joined to 2 r of 
last row. Leave 7 rings of last row between clover leaves. 
(See illustration.) 

The next row is rings and chains alternating, r of 5 d s, 

3 p with 5 d s between, 5 d s, and ch of 3 d s, 3 p with 2 d s 
between, 3 d s. Join each r to r of last row and join to 
each other. Join 3 r to c 1 at the turn. This forms one 
side of the bag. Make the back the same as this side 
and join edges by middle p of the chains as seen in the 
illustration. Leave 11 chains at the top without joining. 

Around the top of the bag make a double row of rings 
with chains between, r of 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s between, 

4 d s, and ch of 6 d s. Join rings of each row to each other 
by 1st. p, and those of inner row to chains in top of the bag. 
Join rings often enough to make the work lie flat. 

Crochet a ball or make a tassel for the lower edge. 
Run a silk cord through spaces at the top to draw up. 

If a larger bag is desired, make another double row of 
rings and chains before working the last row which joins 
the sides. 


29 



Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET ‘TOOK Cotton 

111111111111111 it 111111111111111111 ii i ii 1111111 ii 11111111111111 ti 1111 n 11111 n 11 m 111111111111111111111111111111111M M1111111111111, |, 11M1111, |, 111 111, |iiihiiii, mm, min, 11111,1111111111111,111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111 



Baby’s Tatted Cap No. 20 


Materials: Three spools of Richardson's Tatting 
Silk or 2 spools of R. M. C. Cordonnet Special No. 50, 

a Shuttle, 2J^ yds. of No. 1 and 1 yard of No. 5 Satin 

Ribbon. 

The work throughout is done with two threads thus: 
Ring of 8 p with 2 d s between, close, tie and cut the 

threads. Ring of 5 d s, 9 p with 2 d s between, 5 d s, 

fasten on the spool thread and make a ch of 6 d s, join 
to a p of middle ring, 6 d s, turn and make another large 
ring, joining to first by the first p. Alternate rings and 
chains until 8 of each are made, fastening the last ch to 
the first ring and cut threads. This wheel is the center of 
the back. Around this make a row of rings and chains 
alternating, the ring of 3 d s, 3 p with 3 d s between, 3 
d s, and the ch of 3 d s, 3 p with 2 d s between, 3 d s v Join 
each ring to a p of the wheel, joining 2 to each large ring 
and 1 between large rings and join rings to each other by 
first p. For the next row make a double row of rings 
with 6 ch between. The ring is 4 d s, 3 p with 4 d s 
between, 4 d s, and ch is 6 d s. Join first ring to ch of 
previous row, ch, turn, another ring, ch, turn, another ring, 
joining rings in each row to each other, and each of the 
inner row to the chains. Join often enough so the work 
will cup slightly to form the crown. 

For the next row make 8 of the wheels like the one in the 
center. Join 2 of the large rings to 4 of the rings of 
last row, and join wheels by middle p of 2 rings. Leave 


1 small ring of last row between wheels. (See illustra¬ 
tion.) Leave 2 wheels for the neck and in the space 
each side make a part of a wheel of 3 large rings and 3 
chains joined to a center of 5 p with 2 d s between. Across 
the front between wheels make clover leaves to fill open 
spaces, each ring in leaf of 4 d s, 5 p with 2 d s between, 
4 d s, joined as seen in the illustration. In front of this 
make a double row of rings and chains as before, joining 
to wheels and clover leaves often enough to have the work 
flat. Make another row of 8 wheels joined to each other 
and to the last row same as in previous row of wheels. 
Make clover leaves in spaces as before. 

Last row is as follows: Ring of 5 d s, p, 5 d s, join to 
p of wheel, 5 d s, p, 5 d s, close. With 2 threads make a 
ch of 6 d s, turn, clover leaf each ring of 4 d s, 5 p with 

2 d s between, 4 d s, ch of 6 d s, another ring joined to the 

first one and to the wheel, ch 6, fasten to middle p of ring 
of clover leaf (see illustration), turn, ch 6, another ring, 
ch 6, turn, another clover leaf joined to the first by the 
middle p of ring. Join rings to wheels and clover leaves 
often enough to have work flat. Make this row all around 
the cap, fulling at the two corners. „ 

Run the narrow ribbon through spaces of the last row 
and adjust ties as seen in the picture. If a larger cap is 
desired, before making the last row, make a double row of 
rings with chains between all around the cap. When the 
last row is reached it will be seen whether the cap is of 
the right size or not. 


30 




Chicago %ICHARDSON SILK COMPANY New York 

... . . . .......mimii .....mi.mu..... iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii......... 



Doily Border In Tatting and Braid No. 21 


Materials: Two spools of Richardson's R. M. C. No. 
30, a Justrite Easy-wind or a rubber shuttle, and one 
and a half yds. of No. 5 Braid. 

Directions 

Cut the braid and join having 100 medallions in the 
piece. Make a c 1 each ring of 5 d s, 5 p separated by 
2 d s, 5 d s. Fasten on the spool thread, ch of 6 d s, p, 
6 d s, then another c 1. Join 4th p of first ring to 2nd p 
of a medallion, and 2nd and 4th picots of next ring to 
picots of 2 medallions (see illustration), and 3rd ring by 
the 2nd p to 2nd medallion, ch 6 d s, join to p of 1st ch, 
6 d s, turn, make 3rd c 1 joining to medallions of braid 
same as 2nd c 1, ch 6 d s, join to p of 1st ch, 6 d s, fasten 
to 1st c 1. Join the clover leaves to each other by 1st 
picots. (See illustration.) 

Make i9 more of these figures joining to braid same as 
this one and leaving a medallion of braid free between 
the figures at the inner edge. 


On the outside of the braid make a c 1 joining to the 
free medallion and the one each side. Each r of the c 1 
has 5 d s, 5 p separated by 2 d s, 5 d s. Rings are joined 
to each other by the 1st p and to the corresponding 
medallion by the middle p. 

Make the outer row of rings and chains alternating, 
ch of 4 d s, 3 p separated by 3 d s, 3 d s. Join 3 rings to 
each medallion and the 3 also joined to each other (see 
illustration), join 1 r to each c 1, 1 to medallion each side 
of the c 1, and 1 to bar between the 2 medallions at outer 
edge of the scallop. 

For the inner edge make a double row of rings, each of 
5 d s, 3 p separated by 5 d s. Join rings of each row to 
each other by 1st p, and those of the outer row to medal¬ 
lions and clover leaves, 3 to each medallion, 1 free and 2 
to each c 1. 

Join the border to the linen with any desired finish. 
The doily when finished measures 20 inches in diameter. 


31 



Silk %ICH ARDS ON’S CROCHET TOOK Cotton 

IIIIIIIIHIItlllllltllllllMIIIIIIIIIMUIMIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIMIMIMIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIUIIIIIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIII 



Directions for Smocking 


The best method for smocking is by taking up the ma¬ 
terial at the small dots (which are made at to }/± inch 
apart) with short stitches on the right side of the material. 
Run the threads along on each line of dots until you have 
your material all gathered. Then fasten the threads at 
the end, leaving the material the correct fullness or width 
desired. This will make smocking very easy. All that 
is necessary is to follow along the dots with the various 
stitches which you desire to use. All work starts at the 
left side and works toward the right. 

The material required for smocking usually averages 
about one yard for every 12 inches of smocked goods, 
varying somewhat according to the design used. 

Single Cable Stitch: In making this stitch like on 
the two illustrations, one must follow the gathering 
thread and keep the work perfectly straight. Begin 
with the thread on the first pleat on the wrong side of 
goods, and bring the needles up on the right side. Work 
from left to right and keep the thread above the needle in 
the first stitch and below needle in the second stitch, 
then above needle in the third stitch and below needle 


in fourth stitch, etc., continuing in this manner to end of 
row. 

For double cable stitch, work the row of single stitch, 
keeping it slightly above the gathering thread, then work 
another in the same manner, keeping it below the gathering 
thread, but reversing the order above needle and below 
needle. That is, if the first row is started with thread 
above, the next row should start with thread below, etc. 

Wave Stitch: Begin on first pleat at left hand. 
Insert needle from wrong to right side of material with 
thread above needle, take four stitches in the next four 
pleats, grading them down and ending on the second 
gathering thread. With thread under needle take four 
stitches in the next four pleats, grading upwards and ending 
on first gathering thread. Continue in this manner 
across with thread above needle and under needle alter¬ 
nately each four stitches. 

Diamond stitch is made by using two rows of this wave 
stitch, with the points meeting forming a diamond in 
the center. 

After all smocking is finished, the original gathering 
threads should be pulled out. 


32 









Wash Embroidery Silk 


“Perfect” and “Our Art” 

Made in Ail Shades 

"PERFECT,” K-oz. on the Ball, A£\t~ 

Price. 

"OUR ART,” K-oz. on the Ball, O tr 

Price. 

At All Dealers 


50 Yard Sewing Silk 


Color Number on each Spool; 12 Spools to Box. 
Black and All Colors. 

Sizes: 

Blacks: OOO, OO, O, A, B, C, D, E. 
Colors: Size A only. 

Price, 5c Per Spool 


100 YARDS ON A BALL 

Richardson’s Pure Silk for Tatting is a new 
and improved thread especially made for Tatting 
Trimmings on Lingerie, Baby Wear, Handker¬ 
chiefs, etc. 

Also for making Baby Bonnets, Doilies, 
Lamp Shades, etc. 

Price, 25c a Ball 

At All Dealers 

100 Yard Sewing Silk 


Color Number on each Spool; 12 Spools to Box. 
Black and all Colors. 

Sizes: 

Blacks: OOO, OO, O, A, B, C, D, E. 
Colors: Size A only. 

Price, 10c Per Spool 


Wash Embroidery Silk 


GRECIAN FLOSS—For Pillows and General Embroidery. 
FILO FLOSS — For Colored Embroidery on White. 

ROPE SILK—Heavy Thread for Couching. 

WASH TWIST — For General Embroidery. 

SICILIAN FLOSS — For Edges, Buttonholing, etc. 

MT. MELLICK—For Mt. Mellick. 


At All Dealers 

Save the Tags 


Richardson’s Products Standard of the World 

ASK FOR THEM — ACCEPT NO OTHER 


1072 


Pure 


RICHARDSON’S 

Ilk Products 


Crochet Silk and Special Tatting Silk 

GUARANTEED FAST COLORS 

Crochet Tatting 





























LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 


0 000 212 356 3 0 



RICHARDSON’S 


30L ill C. Corbonnet 



Art. 65 

Matches the C D. M. C. Thread 

Manufactured from the highest grade §ea Island Cotton. For all 
kinds of Crochet Work and Lace Making. 

MADE IN THE FOLLOWING SIZES AND COLORS: 

Coarse Fine 


White . . 

... 3 

5 

10 

15 

20 

30 

40 

50 

60 70 80 

Ecru . . . 

... 3 

5 

10 

15 

20 

30 

40 

60 

60 

Light Blue . 


5 




30 


60 


Delft Blue . 


5 




30 


50 


Pink . . . 


5 




30 


50 


Linen . . . 


5 




30 


50 


Yellow . . 


5 




30 


60 


Lavender 


5 




30 


60 



Ball with Green and White Label All Sizes, 10c Per Ball 

CMade in the U. S. A. by Richardson. Silk Co. Chicago and New York 

tllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllM 

Art. jx. ill C. Corbonnet 

51 Special Cvodjct Cotton 

Matches D. M: C. Article lyi 

For Lace Making and all kinds of Crochet Work. 7/10 oz. on a Ball 
Six Cord. Made from Selected Sea Island Cotton. 


White 

Ecru 


Coarse SIZES Fine 

3 6 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 100 150 

3 5 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 


Made in the U. S. A. 



IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIB 


lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll 


llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll 


Art. 

17 


c Made in 
the 

U. S. cA. 


New and Original 

i£>tx i£>tranb ^>tlk prober 

Again Richardson Silk Company leads by placing a “Six Strand” “Silk 
Broder” on the market. Every lady who has used the six strand cotton 
will be happy to know of this new and original “Six Strand” “Silk 
Broder,” made of pure silk, in white and staple colors. 


At All Dealers 


5c the Skein 


Press of Stevens, Maloney 6C Co. Chicago 




























































